Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Book Review (9/34)The Omnivore's Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals by Michael Pollan

I had an interesting IM conversation with a friend a few weeks ago. She had decided to try and limit the amount of processed foods she ate after reading this book. I have often made fun of people who only eat organic and books and movie about the horror of the food industry tend to have the opposite effect on me. Upton Sinclair's The Jungle made me want a hot dog and after seeing Super Size Me I really wanted a Big Mac.

However, as my friend continued to present the argument Pollan makes I decided that I at least ought to give the book a shot, especially considering the deal was that if I read the book she'd consider taking up running (convincing people to join me on my quest for healthy living through exercise seems to be a new hobby of mine). So I requested the book from the library and dove in when it arrived a few weeks later.

Pollan's book is an attempt to answer the question, "What should we have for dinner?". As he points out, this is an easy question for a koala bear, who only dines on eucalyptus leaves. However, for a human who can eat just about anything, the question proves more daunting, especially considering how far we are removed from the process of creating food these days. Pollan sets out on a journey to create and eat four meals, one produced by the Industrial food industry, one produced by Big Organic, one produced by Little Organic, and one that he hunted and gathered himself.

His section on the industrial food industry was eye opening. Basically, it appears that the majority of stuff we buy at Krogers (or whatever grocery chain you subscribe to) is made of corn. Scratch that. It's made of petroleum. See, the way it works is we feed cows corn (which makes the cows sick since they aren't made to eat corn, which makes us pump them full of antibiotics, which leads to strains of virii who are resistant to antibiotics....) that is made by using a shit load of chemical pesticides and fertilizers (made from petroleum). Which if you think about it makes ethanol hilarious. We use oil to grow corn then make ethanol from that corn for a net loss of oil. The more you look at it you see that the food industry has taken what was once a solar driven cycle and turned it into a fossil fuel cycle. Everything comes from corn. Chickens, pigs, cows, hell even salmon are being fed corn. That's why wild salmon is better for you than farmed salmon. Farmed salmon is basically... corn.

Of course the Big Organic industry turns out not much better. As Organic food gained popularity the demand made organic growers adopt the practices and methods of the industrial food industry. Thus, Big Organic is also based on the same bedrock of fossil fuels.

One of the most fascinating parts of the book is the description of the small farm (Little Organic) called Polyface in Virginia. Polyface is a small organic farm that only sells its products locally. The owner raises turkey, chickens, rabbits, cows, and pigs in a manner that is pretty close to the natural order of things. As a result, the products of the farm are healthier and tastier than their industrial counterparts as well as better for the environment. I really want to try eating this way and will check out Eatwild.com to find a local farm like Polyface.

The last section of the book has Pollan hunting and gathering for his meal and contains a nice discussion on the ethics of eating animals. I don't think the discussion made me a vegetarian (or Pollan one either), but I do think I need to discover more about what I'm eating, specifically where it comes from. I think eating meat from a place like Polyface would be a lot better than eating it from Krogers after reading this book.

So if you are looking to have your eyes opened about what exactly you are putting into your body when you pound a Big Mac, I highly recommend this book.

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